A P&S AIMING AID PROVIDES FOR FAST, AUTOMATIC, INSTINCTIVE, AND ACCURATE AIMING AT CLOSE QUARTERS.
To shoot a pistol effectively, the front and rear sights must be aligned, and placed on the target correctly. That is normally done using hand-eye coordination skills, and it's called Sight Reliant Shooting. And most everyone uses it when shooting on the range.
However, in most all close quarters life threat situations, Sight Reliant Shooting can not be, or is not used.
That is due to poor lighting, the dynamics of those situations, and the automatic activation of our instinctive Fight or Flight response, which results in the loss of fine motor skills and near vision, both of which are needed to align the sights and accurately place them on the target.
In a study of thousands of Police combat cases, the New York Police Department found that sight alignment was not used in 70 percent of them. Officers used instinctive or point shooting, and their hit rate, was less than 20%.
The web video of the 2011 Detroit Police Station Shooting in which four officers were shot, is a vivid example of what really happens in close quarters life threat situations.
Here's a link to it.
In a real close quarters life or death shooting situation, it is highly doubtful that you will have the presence of mind and the time to align the sights properly and squeeze the trigger to assure the accuracy of each shot.
Also, according to FBI stats, if you are going to be shot and or killed, there is an 80% chance that will happen at less than 20 feet.
So unless you know about and use an alternative shooting method, you most likely will have no effective shooting method to use.
AIMED Point Shooting or P&S is one alternative shooting method.
P&S employs our instinctive ability to accurately point at things, and it can be used with the aiming aid shown below which provides for automatic sight alignment.
When the aiming aid and P&S are used together, you will get fast, automatic, instinctive, and accurate aiming at close quarters. The aid can be used with pistols, assault rifles, sub machine guns, paintball guns, airsoft guns, and even toy guns.
Here's how it works.
As the aiming aid and the sights are in correct alignment, when your index finger is placed against it, you will have automatic and correct sight alignment. Then, when you point at a target, you will get fast, automatic, instinctive, and accurate target engagement.
Here's what the US Army says about our ability to point fast and accurately:
"Everyone has the ability to point at an object.
"When a soldier points, he instinctively points at the feature on the object on which his eyes are focused. An impulse from the brain causes the arm and hand to stop when the finger reaches the proper position.
"When the eyes are shifted to a new object or feature, the finger, hand, and arm also shift to this point.
"It is this inherent trait that can be used by a soldier to rapidly and accurately engage targets."
How to add a "test" aiming aid to a gun.
Anyone is welcome to add one to their personal firearm/s and airsoft/paintball/etc... type guns if done at their own risk and expense, and if they accept full responsibility for any and all results. And ditto for Police agencies that may wish to add the aid to agency weapons.
The aiming aid extends out from the side of the gun like a small shelf.
And when your index finger is placed against it and pointed at a target, the gun barrel will point accurately at the target.
All you have to do is point-n-pull, point-n-pull, point-n-pull.
The middle finger or left index finger can be used to pull the trigger.
The aiming aid also helps keep the index finger in place and away from the slide.
Pieces of 3/4 inch plastic corner molding that are about 4 inches long, can be used to make aiming aids. They can be attached with 3M double sided adhesive tape. (VHB - very high bond - tape can be used as well.)
A shim made of suitable material, may be needed if the side of the gun where the aid is attached, is not flat.
The aiming aids shown are 5/8 x 5/8 x 4 inches. In the middle picture above, note that the aid has been trimmed to better match the configuration of the gun. Strong scissors and a bit of sandpaper can be used for snipping and smoothing the edges.
If the part that sticks out horizontally from the gun, sticks out to far, reduce it some, to see if that works for you.
A little rubbing alcohol on a rag or paper towel can be used to clean the side of the gun where the tape makes contact. The little alcohol wipes that can be found in most any drug department of a store work good. The VHB tape info may say that it bonds permanently, but just pull or pry a bit, and then allow it to stretch and it will peel off of most surfaces.
I have used the aiming aid when firing guns as fast as I could point and pull, point and pull. It makes correct index finger placement mechanical and automatic, and it keeps it in place and away from the slide when the gun is jumping and bucking in your hand with rapid firing.
P&S also works when moving and shooting, and when shooting at aerial targets. (Shooting at and hitting aerials does require some practice.)
Also, using the aiming aid is not a bar against using the sights if time and conditions allow for their use. The aiming aid and your pointing ability will enhance their use.
C A U T I O N ! ! !
COMMON SENSE IS REQUIRED WHEN USING THE AIMING AID.
If the aid or your finger when placed against it, will affect the gun's action, THEN DON'T USE THE AID with that gun.
If your finger may be hit by the slide when the gun is fired, or by an ejected shell, or hot gases, or if your finger extends beyond the end of the barrel, THEN DON'T USE THE AID with that gun.
A 1911 can jam if the projecting pin of the slide stop is pressed on when the slide recoils, so don't use P&S with a 1911.
[As a historical note on the 1911, the US Army did not fix that design fault. They only cautioned against using P&S with the 1911 in the original manual on the 1911 and other manuals dating from 1912 up to the 1940's. And I am sure there are other manuals which I am unaware of that carry that caution.
Here's the cautionary language from the first manual on the 1911: "The trigger should be pulled with the forefinger. If the trigger is pulled with the second finger, the forefinger extending along the side of the receiver is apt to press against the projecting pin of the slide stop and cause a jam when the slide recoils."
As such, our armed forces members for 70+ years did not have the option of using what the US Army says is a fast and accurate method of aiming in close quarters where there is the greatest chance of being shot and/or killed.]
Always use safe gun handling practices.
As to using the middle finger on the trigger, according to the literature, in combat you will have a crush grip on your gun, so it really doesn't matter which finger is used to pull the trigger.
And the grip used with P&S is not your weak 3 fingered competition and marksmanship grip.
It is a 4 fingered grip that provides a strong and level shooting platform. The gun is held in the natural pincer of the thumb, web of the hand, and the index finger. And the ring and little fingers add their support and also give tenacity to the grip.
You can squeeze the beegebers out of the gun, and all you will do is tighten and strengthen the grip. Front punches and elbow smashes can be made, and the gun and forearm can be used as a crude battle axe.
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